Anti-Aging Skin Care Trends and Treatments
Whitney Bowe, MD, dermatologist and assistant medical director of laser and cosmetic services at Advanced Dermatology, PC in New York City and Briarcliff Manor, New York
What new research has caught your attention?
Studies now show that you can develop signs of aging, such as wrinkles and brown spots, from infrared light and heat. We used to think that UV light was the culprit of most skin damage, but emerging research shows that heat can also cause inflammation and damage, including premature aging.
What about innovations in ingredients?
New forms of hyaluronic acid are making their way into injectable fillers as well as topical products. Hyaluronic acid is a staple in skin care, because it is so effective in hydrating the skin and adding moisture. The molecule is being tweaked such that it lasts longer and penetrates deeper into the skin. It’s in new over-the-counter products that act like fillers to lift, tighten, and add volume.
Have you added any new procedures to your practice?
Two new technologies now target fat under the chin. People often complain that this area sags and makes them look older. Up until now we haven’t had a minimally invasive way of effectively treating this area. But I’ve started using Kybella, which is an acid that dissolves the fat, and CoolMini, a device that freezes the fat. As a result, the jawline looks more defined and the skin has renewed firmness. I can use the options together or select one based on a patient’s needs. I’m happy to finally have nonsurgical options to target such a specific concern.
What’s the biggest trend you’ve observed recently?
I’m seeing a significant increase in men coming in seeking cosmetic procedures. And this is happening everywhere — last year, 10% of cosmetic procedures were performed on men. The most common requests are for injectables, both fillers and botulinum toxin. I also hear complaints about looking tired, loss of facial muscle mass, wanting a more defined jawline, and treating forehead creases.
What skin care trends excite you?
People are becoming more conscious about what they are putting in their body and how it impacts their skin. We’re now seeing research that shows how anti-inflammatory supplements can improve skin’s hydration and appearance as well as improve acne and rosacea. I spend much more time with my patients discussing the importance of diet with regard to the skin. I’m personally interested in the benefits of omega-3s and the potential to help improve skin from the inside out.
What about new or promising procedures?
Microneedling isn’t a new procedure, but I see a big opportunity to broaden its application. The idea is to damage the skin in a controlled way — with a device a doctor uses to create small punctures in the surface. Then you apply an active ingredient to improve scars, pores, wrinkles, pigmentation, and stretch marks –the possibilities are limitless. Studies show that by damaging the skin you’re able to send a “message” deep into the dermis to create new collagen and elastin — and when you incorporate the appropriate topical treatment, you can see impressive results.
Are there any new treatments you hope to bring to your practice soon?
Our range of injectable fillers is going to expand as alternatives from other countries become available in the U.S. New fillers including Volbella and Teosyal that use different forms of hyaluronic acid to add lift and smooth lines will offer patients more choice. And Evolus will be a new neurotoxin injectable that seems to be as effective as Botox. Whenever I have more options for my patients, I’m excited.
Jeremy Green, MD, dermatologist, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami
Do you have any favorite new treatments?
Cellfina is probably the hottest new treatment for me. So far there hasn’t been anything this effective to treat cellulite. It’s a minimally invasive procedure that releases the fibrous bands that cause cellulite dimples, and it appears to be a permanent solution for smoothing cellulite.
What new techniques do you use in your practice?
I’m combining neurotoxin with other therapies for improved results. For a scar patient, I injected a neurotoxin before performing a laser treatment, and now the scar is nearly invisible. Relaxing the muscles around scar tissue helps the skin heal faster. I’m also injecting neurotoxin before Fraxel, so wrinkles are relaxed and the laser can more easily target the underlying tissue. The same idea works with Ultherapy to treat cellulite.
What about new developments that excite you?
Probiotics. We all know that good bacteria in your gut can be healthy, so the same idea may apply to your skin — that certain bacteria are helpful in keeping skin healthy. Procter & Gamble has patented a topical probiotic that’s compatible with the skin biome (the skin’s good bacteria). This could be worked into skin care and makeup. This is an interesting new direction in skin care.